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IWO JIMA 2009

We decide to watch the 2009 eclipse from north of Iwo Jima, on a cruise out of China organised by
Roy and Bonnie Mayhugh.  Our ship is the Costa Classica.

Yoko and I arrive in Beijing with a day
to spare, to reduce the risk of missing
the ship, and to have a day to look
around the city.

We had been disappointed to read, at
the time of the Olympics, that the
Chinese authorities had scoured Beijing
removing notices in Chinglish and
replacing them with correct English.

We need not have worried.  This source of gentle and harmless amusement lives on, as evidenced by this notice outside the main Olympic stadium.

It is raining when we wake up the next morning, and it
rains all day.  Like all eclipse freaks, we begin to obsess
about the weather.  The forecasts for the mainland are
gloomy and we are pleased to be on our ship and getting
away from China.
Beijing's a nice place, so they say.
But it rained every tick of today.
So nothing could be finer;
We are on our ocean liner
In China--and sailing away.

Our first full day on the ship is busy.  There are many lectures on astronomical themes and we see
presentations about the Hubble telescope (by Kelly Beatty), tides (David Lynch) and eclipse
photography (George Keene).  Costa Cruises staffers doggedly try to interest the umbraphiles
in more traditional at-sea activities.

Busy times out on the sea swell.
I've learned stories only Hubble could tell.
And how the tides run,
Photographing the sun,
And dancing the salsa as well.

On the next two days the ship visits Jeju island (South Korea) and Kagoshima (Japan).  On Jeju we
visit volcanic zones and explore kilometres into lava tubes. From Kagoshima, we visit the the volcanic
area Sakurajima ("shima" and "jima" mean "island" in Japanese but Sakurajima has been a peninsula
since the eruption of 1914).  Jeju and Sakurajima are liberally covered with rocks and prompt
modification of a limerick from Easter Island:

I'll remember these volcanic zones
Until old age crumbles my bones.
And I'll stop taking trips
To see an eclipse
When Jeju runs out of stones.

The picture shows a walking trail in
the lava rock park, Sakurajima.

We leave Kagoshima and head for
Iwo Jima.  Our only full day before
eclipse day is largely taken up with
observation rehearsal, and learning
about Iwo Jima in World War II.


On deck 24 hours before the eclipse, with the ship at the speed and heading it will take during the
eclipse, it is very hot and very humid.  But it is still overcast.

At rehearsal, the heat was a rotter.
High temperatures made us all totter.
But if you're with me today,
You'll know why I say
I hope that eclipse day is hotter.

We hear several presentations about the momentous battle for Iwo Jima, and a talk by William
Mayhugh, Roy's father, who was at the battle (as a signalman on the USS Tennessee).  So our
circuit of the island early on eclipse day is a meaningful experience; we know a detailed history
of every place we see.

Eclipse day is sunny.  It is the only clear day of our cruise.  There is a circle of cloud all the way
around the horizon, but no cloud above us, not even the high cirrus expected even if we avoided
the low cumulus.  The sea is so smooth we can see the clouds reflected in the water.  The horizon
cloud is actually a bonus--we can see the clouds change colour as the umbra overtakes us.

The longest eclipse of the century.  For us, more than 6 minutes 40 seconds.  Again, I yield to
temptation and watch the diamond ring at second contact, thus spoiling my dark adaptation.  Still,
soon I can see Mercury, Venus, Mars and Saturn, plus several stars--Sirius, Procyon, Rigel, Pollux,
and others I can't identify with certainty.

    
Diamond ring at second contact.  Photo
Norihiro Doshita
Corona at mid eclipse.  Photo Hiroaki Kuwahara

Plenty to look at.  The corona seems smooth, as might be expected at a time of minimum solar
activity, but compact.  Not much red colour from the chromosphere, with the moon larger than during
most eclipses.  Not many beads.  At third contact, one prominence.  It's over too soon.

      I do have time for a photo with my Canon pocket
digital camera (left).  Select Auto, just point and shoot.  Amazing what these gadgets can do.

An eclipse of six minutes and more?
I was afraid that it might be a bore.
Second contact to third,
Time flew like a bird.
And then I was crying for more.

A long eclipse is a dark eclipse.  Many observers (particularly those with binoculars) could see lunar surface features illuminated by earthshine.

 

This photo, taken on Eniwetok Atoll, clearly shows the moon's marias.  Copyright © 2009  Brad 
Templeton, Kathryn Myronuk, and Landon Curt Noll.  All Rights Reserved.

The day after the eclipse, our ship heads for Kobe,
Japan, our last stop before Beijing's port Tianjin.  We
laugh at the pouring rain.

Now we are thinking about next year's eclipse.
Eclipses never fail to amaze.
But this year's is back that-a-ways.
Our problem is now
To figure out how
To pass the next 356 days.

Easter Island is tempting, but the weather is doubtful.  Perhaps somewhere a little south of Tahiti. 
I want to maintain my record of not being clouded out for all of the seven eclipses since 2001 (it's
actually eight since 1999, but that's a more difficult rhyme).

I'm a fortunate son-of-a-gun.
Clear skies since 2001.
And all those people to greet--
The friends that I meet
At total eclipses of the sun.

See you next year!

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